Contrary to the habit of the Brits, India does not do curry. No, it doesn’t exist. Kari does though. This is a small aromatic leaf used in Tamil cookery and just one of the numerous ingredients that make up their spicey masala sauce. By extension, kari also denotes a dish of dry masala-clad vegetables. India’s rich source of spices lies on the fertile slopes of the Western Ghats. It’s a lovely area to head for, cooler than the sticky coastline thanks to its altitude and close to wildlife parks such as Periyar. Elephants roam here when not hauling logs or taking a dip in the lake. In gastro terms this is where black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, nutmeg, cumin, ginger and others are grown - and where empires clashed back in the 16th and 17th centuries to gain control of the lucrative trade. It didn’t take long for the Malabar Coast to become a legend. Initially used for their medicinal properties, these spices then became used as appetite stimulators and digestive aids. Chills also enter the pot - unassuming-looking little red peppers which, like spices, help the body to cope with hot external temperatures by firing it up internally.